Originally posted on Thursday, June 19, 2008 at 11:33pm ·
Oh yeah, I am almost not at all
completely ready to never take Hawaiian beaches by storm, but I did do
something new. My friends Tim and Camine and I had a beach day today and I
"learned" how to surf.....-ish.
We paddled out there. For comparison, imagine a point nigh unreachable, now imagine an ocean current pulling you away from this point, and add in the waves that attacked liked NFL players...as you are trying to reach that point floating on a gigantic, heavy-duty, pointed kickboard, with only your arm and shoulder muscles to pull you out there, Exactly.
And then it was a waiting game. So we waited and waited. I was beat from the paddling so I was down with the naptime but every now and then a wave would dump salt water on my face and ruin it. As I chilled- almost literally- I thought about my impending doom, and how I was going to be destroyed by a wave and then I suddenly developed a huge respect for surfers. Do you realize they swim way the heck out in the ocean, ride a wave in, and then swim all the way back out there!? There is no surf-lift that drops you off where you need to be in the water so that you can ride a wave in and then hop back on the surf-lift to ride back out in to the ocean.
But I have finally now ridden a wave on a surf board. I caught the wave much to my own surprise and (at that moment) my chagrin as well. Tim looked over and saw that I had caught the wave and said, "Stand up!" "Nooooooo!!!!" I shouted back and shook my head dramatically. I did attempt to stand up but my shoulders were not up for it, so instead I stayed on my stomach all the way in. And then I was attacked by a wave when I stood up in the water.
So, one of these days I will actually learn to surf but for now the goal of almost surfing has been accomplished. Now to tackle 'almost skydiving'....
We paddled out there. For comparison, imagine a point nigh unreachable, now imagine an ocean current pulling you away from this point, and add in the waves that attacked liked NFL players...as you are trying to reach that point floating on a gigantic, heavy-duty, pointed kickboard, with only your arm and shoulder muscles to pull you out there, Exactly.
And then it was a waiting game. So we waited and waited. I was beat from the paddling so I was down with the naptime but every now and then a wave would dump salt water on my face and ruin it. As I chilled- almost literally- I thought about my impending doom, and how I was going to be destroyed by a wave and then I suddenly developed a huge respect for surfers. Do you realize they swim way the heck out in the ocean, ride a wave in, and then swim all the way back out there!? There is no surf-lift that drops you off where you need to be in the water so that you can ride a wave in and then hop back on the surf-lift to ride back out in to the ocean.
But I have finally now ridden a wave on a surf board. I caught the wave much to my own surprise and (at that moment) my chagrin as well. Tim looked over and saw that I had caught the wave and said, "Stand up!" "Nooooooo!!!!" I shouted back and shook my head dramatically. I did attempt to stand up but my shoulders were not up for it, so instead I stayed on my stomach all the way in. And then I was attacked by a wave when I stood up in the water.
So, one of these days I will actually learn to surf but for now the goal of almost surfing has been accomplished. Now to tackle 'almost skydiving'....
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